a long weekend in Lisboa
As my first ever travel post, I think it’s important to state early that this will read more as a travel diary than as a travel guide.
A lot of my trips run on vibes rather than schedule — too much structure just ruins the casual exploration of a holiday. So despite the fact that I am often a type A planner, I am very much type B when it comes to following said plans.
This weekend, in particular, wasn’t about ticking off Lisbon highlights — it was about celebrating someone we love, so intense itineraries was not the vibe.
coordinating chaos and keeping secrets
After a successful trip to Italy for my partner’s dads 60th earlier in the year, he and his brother decided all too easily that we should travel again for his mum’s 60th.
The tricky part was navigating flights from 3 different destinations that were similar price and landing times — that and keeping it all a secret from his mum.
Sounds like it should be an easy job considering she lives in a different country, right? Wrong. My partner’s dad buckles at zero pressure when it comes to secrets from his wife (as he should!). But to our surprise, he held it down. She had no idea where she was off until boarding time, and not a slightest hint that we were all joining.
So after 2 months of stressful secret keeping, we were finally able to deliver the most wholesome surprise for the most wholesome person.
relinquishing control as a control freak
Because this trip wasn’t really mine to lead, I had to approach Lisbon a little differently than I usually would.
I couldn’t expect endless trinket shops and mindless meanders all over, but that was surprisingly fine with me.
The spreadsheet fanatic in me still made a loose plan for all three days as inspiration, just in case anyone needed ideas. It was mainly for outfit planning & packing purposes though.
Top tip: never doubt the power of a day by day spreadsheet for anything and everything.
Despite our best efforts to arrive in a close-ish window of time, my partner & I were the last ones to arrive by 8 hours.
Nonetheless, we were lucky enough to not miss out on the first group dinner.
I don’t know what it is about going on holiday, but the first meal of the trip with everyone always just hits different.
Embracing my role as the relaxed passenger on this holiday.
day 0.5 — The Undefeated Feeling of that First Meal
Once everyone had finally arrived and the dust had settled, there was only one thing left to do: eat. Due to the time of day and severe hunger pangs, we opted for something within walkable distance rather than venturing too deeply into the city.
Thank God we did, otherwise we would have missed out on Cafe Alto Minho.
Down a side street and not too noticeable, it was a quick walk with good reviews, so we just went for it. The staff were immediately kind and welcoming, the sort of people that turn a good dinner experience to an incredible one. Even without their distinct warmth, the food here was fantastic in its own right.
I ordered squid in garlic sauce and not only was the portion generous, but it was the sort of dish I am still salivating over months later. I tried my best to go back here for another go at it before the weekend was up, but alas.
I took this photo to remember the name of the restaurant and instead captured an incredibly cute moment of our waiter sending us off after the meal.
There are four whole squids in this dish. I would move to Portugal solely to eat this dish every day.
day 1 — rainy day roaming
I always find it tough to explore a new city in less than ideal weather, as it paints a completely different picture of a place. The Lisbon I had in my head was golden sunshine and clear blue skies, versus the grey blanket and sporadic showers we actually got — although would you have even guessed with all the Irish men in their shorts?
Castelo de São Jorge and cloudy skies
There was no real plan for today except for exploring Old Town and visiting some landmarks we had saved. So we decided to start our day at Castelo de São Jorge in the Alfama area. With Lisbon’s landscapes deservingly raved about, it made sense to find a vantage point we could see it all from.
The second highest hill, but arguably one of the most stunning panoramic viewpoints of the city and the river Tejo. Beyond the views, the castle itself has a lot of rich history and interesting architectural points and is definitely worth visiting.
From there we headed towards the Igreja da Graça, recommended by a friend as a great spot to visit for a rooftop view & free glass of port. For me, it was a little underwhelming, the nave was pretty and interesting to walk around, but the weather was far too unpleasant to really enjoy the rooftop views.
The views don’t get any less stunning, even in the poor weather. I dare to say it makes the distinct red rooves pop even more.
Historical upkeep aside, I don’t agree with paying to enter religious buildings that are tax exempt — maybe that’s just me.
break time: bifana, beer, and bustling food markets
After a morning of uphill walking and damp clothes, frequent pit stops became very necessary. So when passing a Bifana shop that smelled irresistible, we decided to try it out.
I’m not sure if it was the best place to get an authentic experience due to its close proximity to tourist spots. But after all is said and done, it was still pretty delicious.
Unluckily, the weather only continued to get worse, and after spending the better part of the morning galivanting in the rain, we decided to seek a drier destination for the evening.
So despite the fact we had already dabbled in some bifana, churros, and beer along the way, we decided to head on towards the Timeout Market for more food and drinks. Not necessarily the bread and butter of Lisbon, but still a fun thing to check out in any city, especially in torrential downpours.
Personally, I really enjoyed it. There were heaps of food options available, but having not had sushi in over a year, it was a no brainer for me. Luckily, I was with a group of foodies, so we all got separate dishes to swap and share, the ideal eating experience.
Definitely appealing to tourists, is it still a trap if the food is good though?
So many different food stands to choose from, had to take at least two laps before I could decide.
day 2: exploring the city’s historic praças
By the second day, the city felt more familiar, the skies a little sunnier, and we were ready to wander further from home base. Starting locally, we decided to explore some of the popular praças around us.
- Praça dos Restauradores
- Praca Dom Pedro IV
- Praça de Figueira
There was a food market going on in Praça de Figueira when we passed through, so we of course had to meander through the stalls and stop for some sangria.
It’s also where we got to try Queijo Serra da Estrela — one of the oldest and most celebrated cheeses in Portugal, and rightly so.
Not wanting to risk it being taken by airport security was the only reason I didn’t immediately buy 3 blocks. I’m really not a huge cheese fan, but wow, this cheese was next level.
shoe shopping and sardine stores
For those who may not know, Portugal is a great place to buy two things in particular: leather shoes and sardines.
While we were exploring Praça de Figueira, we came across multitudes of shoe stores and it felt only right to see what gems we might be able to take home. Our quest was a failed one in the end, as it can be quite hard to find your size in the styles you like, especially if you are size 40 & up.
Where we failed at shoes, we succeeded in sardines. Close by was the Mundo Fantástico da Sardinha Portuguesa, an incredibly fun and vibrant tinned fish shop.
Personally, I found it to be quite expensive and would instead recommend perusing local grocery stores if you are looking for some tasty tins to take home.
I didn’t ever think that colourfully arranged tins of fish would be so satisfying.
One of the most visually fun book stores I’ve been to, with posters & vinyls to browse through on the upper levels.
Heading West: LX Factory & Recipes from Monks
After a slow morning around the city’s central squares, we decided to head west and see a different side of Lisbon. With that in mind, I directed us towards LX factory — an artsy industrial complex with shops, bars and restaurants. These sorts of places are always a beacon for me, with cute stores and good vibes, it’s a fun and easy way to spend an afternoon.
From there, we ventured even further west to visit the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. This was the place I was most keen on visiting as I wanted to view the grand gothic architecture up close.
Unfortunately though, I did not time keep well and by the time we got there, it was closed — oops.
I was a little bit disappointed by this, but definitely a mistake I have made before, and will likely make again.
I decided to go ‘mope’ about it at Pasteis de Belem, the place of origin of the Portuguese egg custard tarts.
So while I didn’t get to visit the monastery itself, I was at least able to try their centuries old recipe that predates the Pastel de Nata, a tasty bit of history in every bite!
These bad boys made the failed journey worth it.
Day 3: Time for my Spreadsheet to Shine
By our final day, we’d reached that familiar travel point where everyone was happy — but no one quite knew what they wanted next. We had checked off most of the things we wanted to do and were limited to short bursts of walking. It was at that point that I decided to release the spreadsheet.
Based on input from friends and family who had previously travelled to Lisbon, I had noted down that a day trip to Cascais (cash-kaysh) was highly recommended.
Although I had told myself that this was not the trip for my inner type A, with no clear direction for the day, I decided to release the beast.
a day trip to Cascais
Cascais immediately felt like a shift — brighter, calmer, and exactly what we needed on our last day. I was delighted that we got to visit this area, and with the best weather so far, it was a truly perfect day to explore.
A pleasant surprise that we did not know ahead of time, is that on the first Sunday of the month, many of the museums and monuments in Portugal become free to visitors.
That took us straight to the Santa Marta Lighthouse and the Museu Condes de Castro + Guimaraes Palace — both absolutely picturesque and rich in history.
The cutest coastal town with buildings full of character and history. There’s influence from a lot of countries in Cascais and its beautiful to see how they blend together.
seafood single-mindedness
After our meandering, it was time for our last meal of the trip and my mind was on one thing, and one thing only: seafood. I love fresh seafood and ate a lot of it in Vancouver, but since moving to the Netherlands, I just don’t eat it at all.
So for that reason, my self imposed goal in Lisbon was to eat as much seafood as possible.
With that in mind, I looked up restaurants with either squid or oysters or preferably both on the menu, which directed me to Sr. Manuel Seafood Bar.
I thoroughly appreciated everyone else’s patience and ‘as you are’ attitude in this moment, because my search for the perfect restaurant took a bit longer than any hungry person would have liked. But I was adamant.
The effort was well worth it, because Sr. Manuel’s was possibly the best place I could have chosen for us as our last meal together.
Despite ordering 6 oysters, lobster patties and a whole grilled squid, I was tempted to order a second main because there were just too many delicious options to choose from.
Unfortunately, I was rightly stuffed and couldn’t indulge in the scallops as well. I was instead given a chunk of octopus from someone else’s dish — small victories!
If you are a seafood lover (or even if you aren’t) and find yourself in Cascais, definitely add this restaurant to your itinerary.
I think this image speaks for itself.
heading home
Warmed by the sun and the food, it was time for a sleepy journey back towards our hotel to grab our luggage.
There’s always something bittersweet about a group trip coming to an end at the airport. With everyone heading in different directions and waving until out of sight, the scene always feels a bit like a Hallmark movie.
All in all, it was an incredibly heart warming weekend, as trips with my partner’s family always tend to be. One of the biggest reasons for us leaving Canada was to be closer to family, so to have been able to travel for both of his parents 60th’s this year was truly a blessing.
I’m sure there was way more to do and see in Lisbon from a travellers perspective, but the pace of our trip was perfect for us. Plus, that just means that I have a reason to go back!